Cologne had never been top of my list of places to visit. I booked this trip to meet a friend visiting Cologne for work – the aim was to party the weekend away. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the city! Overall, it had a much more relaxed vibe than I expected. I loved the small cobble streets and colourful buildings. Museum Ludwig was fantastic too!
Due to the many outdoor squares (and the lovely River Rhine walkway), I’m sure you could sit outside and have a very enjoyable and relaxing city break here during the summer months.
The following sections are included in this post (click to navigate directly to the section):
- First evening hotel, dinner & drinks
- Kölner Dom Cologne Cathedral
- Museum Ludwig
- Rhine River Walk/Hohenzollernbrücke Bridge
- Chocolate Museum Chocolat Grand Cafe & Museum
- St Maria Lyskirchen
- Shopping
- Heinzelmännchenbrunnen Fountain
- Second evening Dinner & Drinks
- Old Town Groß St. Martin Church, Fischmarkt Square, Heumarkt Square, Tünnes und Schäl, Alter Markt Square
- Alt St. Alban & Gürzenich
- St Maria im Kapitol
- Overstolzenhaus
- Belgisches Viertel Area Cafe Buur, Boutique Belgique, Schee store
- Final day dinner & drinks
- Still on My List
- Watch my YouTube!
1. First Evening: Dinner & Drinks
Hotel
I stayed at the Marriott Hotel – only a couple of minutes walk from Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral). The hotel was fab. It was central with lovely staff, and my room was spacious too!
Dinner & Drinks
I arrived late (and my friend even later). Therefore, we ended up only going out at 11.30 pm that night. My friend is a regular to Cologne and often eats at La Strada Köln seit 1974, (which serves until 3 am!), so we headed to it. It’s always great if you know locals in the city, as the staff treated us so well here! It was a good spot for pizza with wine.
Afterwards, we went to Barney Vallely’s Irish pub for some beer. I try to avoid Irish bars, but this was my (American) friend’s choice of bar. Again, my friend frequently visits here, so we received another great welcome and friendly chat with the super-nice bar staff! As with many Irish bars – it wasn’t the most elegant bar setting. However, it was homely and lively, had friendly staff and a fantastic atmosphere!
DAY 1
2. Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral)
My first stop was for a coffee the following morning (needed after all we drank the night prior!). Thankfully, I could enjoy my coffee and croissant with a fantastic view of Kölner Dom.
From the photographs I had seen of the Cathedral, I still had not expected its immense size! The Gothic Cathedral is the second tallest church in Europe (third tallest in the world!) and is the tallest twin-spired church in the world. It is the most visited landmark in Germany, so it can get quite busy! There are tours available to book if you so wish. However, I enjoyed a peruse around it on my own.
3. Museum Ludwig
If you have read any of my other posts, you will know I always try to fit in an Art Museum wherever I visit! I like pop and cubism art, so I decided upon Museum Ludwig. It had a fantastic display of abstract, expressionism, cubism, surrealism, and pop artwork! Also, it helped that it was right next to Kölner Dom.
As you would expect with a large city, the art display was exceptional here. It has one of the largest Picasso collections in Europe. Some favourites of mine included Warhol, Lichtenstein, and Picasso (see the above gallery).
4. Rhine River Walk/Hohenzollernbrücke Bridge
Though it was almost Winter, the weather was beautiful for this time of year. The sun was shining though it was fresh out; perfect weather for walking. Therefore, I decided to walk along the Rhine River to The Chocolate Museum – this was a fantastic idea!
The Rhine is only a few minutes walk from Cologne Cathedral and Museum Ludwig. Also, there’s a spacious promenade along the river for pedestrians to walk. There is a lovely view of the impressive Hohenzollernbrücke bridge along here. I captured some nice pictures of the Autumn colours and a cute couple looking out over the bridge.
En route to the Chocolate Museum, you could divert from the promenade to see the colourful buildings and fountain at Fishmarkt and explore the Old Town further. However, I wanted to make it to the museum before closing time, so I kept going and returned the following day to explore the Old Town.
5. Chocolate Museum
Honestly, I am not a big fan of museums (except for art)! However, this rated so highly on things to do in Cologne that I decided to check it out. Also, as mentioned, it’s a lovely walk along the river to the museum. Furthermore, you get to cross the Cologne Swing bridge to enter the Chocolate Museum. The swing bridge is the oldest bridge over the Rhine water!
Chocolat Grand Cafe
Within the museum building is Chocolat Grand Cafe. Here, I had the soufflé noisette with caramelized walnuts and white chocolate ice cream. Also, I had a tall glass of hot chocolate with cream on top. You can dine here without having to pay to enter the Chocolate Museum. The cafe alone was worth the trip! If you love chocolate, then definitely visit here! Also, its location is over the Rhine, so there’s a lovely view overlooking the river from the large glass building.
Museum
Next was the Chocolate Museum. If you are interested in the chocolate-making process, it does not disappoint! However, you can still fly through most of it if only certain sections interest you. Firstly, you walk through a tropical greenhouse. The museum then follows the process from harvest, through the chocolate stock exchanges of world markets, to its transport into the chocolate factory. Furthermore, you get to see the machinery used in the chocolate-making process.
Also, the museum displays china sets, pots, etc., used for chocolate throughout the ages, and installations of old shops which sold chocolate, etc. Admittedly, there was a lot of impressive work in the set designs and collection of artifacts. The culmination was on the top floor, where you find chocolate fountains, chocolate displays, staff working the machinery, and a shop selling chocolate! Indeed, my favourite section was here, where you could watch the Lindt chocolates pass through the machinery (stacked, shaken for air, etc.) and then be collected by the working staff. There was even a digital counter telling you the number of chocolates made that day so far!
Much of this would not usually be my kind of thing. However, I’m happy I went. The cafe was fantastic, and parts of the museum were interesting too. It was larger than I expected, but you can fly through sections if you are not interested in the entirety of the process!
6. St Maria Lyskirchen
St Maria Lyskirchen is the smallest of twelve Romanesque churches in Cologne. It is directly across from the bridge entering The Chocolate Museum, so worth a walk by (and a photograph!) if you are going to the museum. I could not stop taking pictures of its beautiful architecture/Gothic exterior. Unfortunately, I did not enter the church. However, it has retained its ceiling paintings and murals from the 13th century, so worth a trip inside if you like old artwork.
Also, if you like churches, St Maria im Kapitol (see section 12) is only a 10min walk from here too.
7. Shopping
I then wandered back towards Kölner Dom, stopping off at Hohe Straße Street (one of Cologne’s oldest streets) en route. It is about a 15-minute walk from The Chocolate Museum. Also, this pedestrianised shopping street is only 5 minutes from Kölner Dom and Museum Ludwig. It was very crowded when I visited (not good with a hangover!). There are mainly high street and souvenir stores found here. Nevertheless, perhaps the Lego store would be of interest to both kids and adults alike!
I visited Hohe Straße because I needed to buy some overnight hair products. However, close to here is Schildergasse, which is one of Cologne’s most popular shopping streets. It was once named the busiest shopping street in Europe!
Also, Ehrenstraße has become another hot spot to visit for shopping. It has both established brands as well as newer hip boutiques too. All three streets are only 10-20 minutes (walk) from the Kölner Dom!
8. Heinzelmännchenbrunnen Fountain
This fountain memorial concerns a centuries-old legend of good pixies/gnomes who do the work of the lazy at night in Cologne. I found this to be an interesting folklore story!
If on a tight agenda, I would not go out of my way to see this fountain. It is what it is in the photographs…and that is it 🙂 However, if you are interested, it is less than a 5-minute walk from Ludwig Museum and Kölner Dom.
9. Dinner & Drinks
Dinner
After a little break in the hotel, we headed to Hänneschen und die Pfeffermühle, another regular haunt of my friends. Again, this was a relaxed diner-like setting though the food was exceptional and very well-priced. In fact, it was so good I returned the next day too! Also, its location has good options for drinks afterwards; it is in Heumarkt Square (which was busy and lively). There’s a lot of outdoor dining in Heumarkt, so I can imagine this is lovely during the warmer season. Also, it is where one of the Christmas markets is for the festive season.
Drinks
We were all dressed up to go somewhere fancy for a cocktail. My friend had sussed out and shown us photographs of Seibert’s; it looked fantastic. Unfortunately, when we arrived, it was closed! It does not open on Sundays and Mondays. It is worth checking out opening hours before calling in here as it is not open all day most days of the week. However, the images and reviews look fantastic, so visit it if cocktail bars are your thing (and let me know how it goes!). Instead, we returned to Barney Vallely’s Irish pub for another night of pints and friendly bar staff.
DAY 2
10. Old Town
Home to several market squares, which act as great places for the famous Cologne Christmas markets! These beautiful open spaces are perfect to dine in and have live music during the summer too.
Pretty Streets
I was expecting more of a generic city look than what I found in Cologne. I loved the beautiful historic Old Town streets. There were many winding alleyways and cobblestone streets to wander and get lost in.
The pretty lamplights, parked bikes, and wooden benches along some quieter streets, such as Mühlengasse, were picturesque. Mühlengasse was especially pretty with its autumn leaves, and when a cute green and yellow mini train passed by here! Click the following to read more about booking the bimmelbahnen train for sightseeing.
Also, I found a little hidden square with cute outdoor dining just off Kastellsgäßchen Street – so my advice is to explore, explore, explore!
Groß St. Martin Church
I could not stop taking photos of this beautiful Romanesque Church from every angle and street as I approached it! Indeed, walking the steps off Mühlengasse Street made for an impressive first view of it. Cologne is known for its twelve Romanesque Churches, with Groß St. Martin Church being one of them. Although Kölner Dom was hugely impressive in size, it was often Groß St. Martin Church that more so caught my attention throughout the city!
Fischmarkt Square
A minute from Groß St. Martin Church, you will find what is likely the most popular Instagram spot in Cologne. That is the colourful Fischmarkt square. It contains colourful Gothic German architecture, with the Romanesque Groß St. Martin Church also popping up in the background over the colourful buildings. I was so impressed by the colourful buildings that I missed the Church in my photos! 😀 Such a great selection of architecture in one spot.
It is a small quaint square with a fountain here too. Furthermore, Fischmarkt is ideally found along the waterfront walkway by the River Rhine.
Heumarkt Square
Less than 5 minutes from Fischmarkt Square is Heumarkt Square. The statue of Friedrich Wilhelm III made for a pretty photo at sunset! Again, it was quiet enough when I visited during the day. However, with restaurants, and outdoor dining, it can get busy in the evenings.
As mentioned, I had eaten here in Hänneschen und die Pfeffermühle the day prior. The food was so good and well-priced that I returned for a second evening! The colourful buildings and winding pedestrian street at the corner of the square are lovely to see while walking towards Groß St. Martin Church from here.
Tünnes und Schäl
Blink…and you may miss these guys! This bronze monument is only a 2-minute walk between Heumarkt and Alter Markt (opposite Groß St. Martin Church). These were popular characters from Cologne’s Hänneschen puppet theatre; they have become legends in the area.
The two roles have been used in many sketches, theatre, graphic design work, etc., throughout the years. It is said that if you rub the nose of Tünnes, you will have good luck!
Alter Markt Square
This square was not too busy when I visited. It has restaurants, cafes, bars etc., which can get lively at night/during the summer. Alter Markt is the location of one of the several Christmas Markets held in Cologne each year. An impressive monument of Jan von Werth-Brunnen, composed of a fountain, is found in the centre of the square.
Again, you will find some colourful German architecture here. Also, it is where you will find the City Hall (Kölner Rathaus) – the oldest City Hall in Germany! If you like its architecture, walk to the other side of the building (on Rathausplatz Street) to view the hall’s Renaissance-style loggia.
11 Alt St. Alban & Gürzenich
Both of the following historic buildings are on Quatermarkt Street.
Alt St. Alban/Old St. Alban
For history lovers, these ruins of a medieval Romanesque church (heavily damaged in World War II) are only a short walk from the Old Town area. You can look through the entrance and see the heart-wrenching monument statues of mourning parents. It dates back to the 11th Century and is among the city’s oldest Romanesque churches. I only stopped here for a minute; unless you are interested in monuments, architecture, history, etc., I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit here. However, it is worth a walk-by if you are in the area.
Gürzenich von Köln
Again, I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit the Gürzenich building. However, if you stop off to see Alt St. Alban, you should take note of this building along the same street. It is also a medieval building – built in 1447 and refurbished in 1997. It is of Gothic architecture style. Interestingly, it is now used as an event and concert space – imagine attending conferences in such a historical space!
12. St Maria im Kapitol
If you like visiting churches, St Maria im Kapitol is another pretty architectural church less than a 10-min walk from St. Maria in Lyskirchen Church (see Section 6). It is another one of twelve Romanesque churches built in Cologne during this period. Also, the church has elements of Gothic architecture.
I found it peaceful and quiet. Furthermore, the architectural design of the church was impressive. There is a serene garden with beautiful Romanesque cloisters – I had this all to myself! However, it was a little tricky finding the entry door! Again, I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit here unless you enjoy visiting historic churches or are interested in architecture. The church is less than a 10-minute walk from the Old Town.
13. Overstolzenhaus
This Romanesque patrician house is one of the oldest buildings in Cologne and is a fantastic work of architecture. The building was damaged in World War Two. However, the building has been restored since then (including its beautiful facade). Nonetheless, I would again only visit this building if you are interested in architecture/history.
It is less than a 10min walk from the Old Town area and only a few minutes walk from St Maria im Kapitol.
DAY 3
14. Belgisches Viertel
My German friend recommended heading further outside the central city to Belgishes Viertel (Belgian Quarter). As a creative person, I loved it out here! It is a trendy area, more laid-back than the main shopping areas.
It has a great choice of vintage stores, boutiques, a creative hub of galleries, and a diverse selection of cafes and eateries. However, it’s a quiet area with not too many touristy things to do, so if it’s tourist central you are after, with limited time, I wouldn’t suggest coming here.
Cafe Buur
Per my friend’s suggestion, I started with brunch at Cafe Buur. It was amazing! If you don’t believe me, check out its reviews too. I ordered the pancake; it arrived fresh in a saucepan and with a chocolate syringe to add even more sweetness as needed! It included melted Nutella, ice cream and strawberries. Also, the freshly squeezed ginger juice helped to wake me up for the day – far too many hangovers on this trip!
It was a cold day, but I was still okay to sit outside the cafe. Spacing was limited – always a good sign when a restaurant is super busy in a quiet area! You could tell it was a popular spot from the buzz here!
Boutique Belgique
Next was another recommendation from my friend. It was only an 8-minute walk from Cafe Buur. The pretty Boutique Belgique is a favourite in the area – one reason being the owner is the hugely popular fashionista Lena Terlutter.
I liked the minimalist white style within the boutique; it allowed the clothes to speak for themselves! The lady working that day seemed super friendly too.
Schee (graphic/home accessories store)
I found this gem all on my own! Thankfully, it was only a 2-minute walk around the corner from Boutique Belgique…and I’m so glad I decided to wander down this street! As a graphic designer, I looooved Schee! I wanted to take pictures of everything in here for inspiration. A definite must-see if you are in this area and like art, design, graphic design, and home accessories. Again, you will see it gets almost perfect online reviews!
Unfortunately, it was raining at this stage, or I would’ve enjoyed wandering this area a little more!
15. Dinner & Beers
Finally, I had time to catch up with my German friend who lives near the city (plus her cute dog Buddy!!). As I hadn’t been to a German beer house, my friend was adamant we visit! We first stopped off at Brauhaus Früh am Dom; it had some great pub food, plus I finally enjoyed a local Cologne beer (Kölsch)! It’s fantastic that Buddy could join us here – he also met another dog inside. Germany tends to be very dog-friendly (Ireland needs to catch up on this!).
Afterwards, we headed towards Cologne Cathedral and found a large beer hall opposite the Cathedral; Gaffel Am Dom. The interior was so much nicer than I expected! It had a beautiful stained-glass ceiling overhead and a large open floor with long tables and a relaxed atmosphere.
16. SUMMARY/STILL TO DO
Unfortunately, my time was limited in Cologne, plus I was busy catching up with different friends while here. Therefore, I did not manage to explore everywhere I wanted to. Nonetheless, I think I fit quite a lot in! I want to return for a nice short summer city break – the Riverwalk, large squares and parks would be great for a summer break. Of course, the markets at Christmas would be another fantastic time to visit!
Main Misses
– Crossing Hohenzollern Bridge for fantastic views over the city
– KölnTriangle: observation deck (preferably at sunset)!
– Rheinpark: not too far from KölnTriangle. Therefore, perhaps a walk to this park for some greenery before visiting KölnTriangle observation deck
– Flora und Botanischer Garten Köln (Botanical Gardens): I love grabbing a coffee and wandering a beautiful park if the weather is nice. Therefore, a summer visit would include these impressive botanical gardens!
Other spots that some of you may enjoy
– A boat trip along River Rhine
– Visit more historic churches, admiring their architecture too, such as Cäcilienkirche (St Cecilia’s Church) and St Gereon’s Basilica.
– In August, check out Gamescom (the second-largest trade fair for interactive electronics).
– Visit more art and artefacts museums, such as Kolumba Museum, Museum für Angewandte Kunst Köln, Wallraf-Richartz Museum, and Romano-Germanic Museum.
– NS Documentation Center: For history lovers, this covers the historical documentation of the Nazi period, with an account of Cologne under national socialism. The “Gestapo Prison” memorial (in the cellar) is one of the best-preserved detention sites of the Nazi era.
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